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A dahlia tuber is the underground storage root that grows beneath a dahlia plant. Think of it as the plant’s energy reserve — it stores nutrients and moisture that help the plant survive winter dormancy and grow again the following season. Each tuber is connected to a central crown, where new sprouts and stems emerge in spring.
Unlike bulbs, tubers are potato-like roots that can vary greatly in shape, size, and appearance depending on the variety. A healthy tuber must have an intact “eye” (growth point) attached to the crown in order to produce a new plant. With proper care and storage, one tuber can grow into a full, blooming dahlia plant covered in flowers all season long.
One of the biggest misconceptions in the dahlia world is that larger or more “perfect-looking” tubers are somehow better. In reality, viable dahlia tubers come in all shapes and sizes — long, short, skinny, twisted, ugly, or oddly shaped tubers can grow just as beautifully as large, picture-perfect ones. What truly matters is that the tuber is healthy, firm, and has a viable eye attached to the crown — not whether it looks pretty for photos.
At Snake River Dahlias, we believe growing beautiful flowers starts with healthy soil, thoughtful care, and a whole lot of time spent in the field. While we are not a fully organic farm, we do our best to use additives, fertilizers and pest control methods responsibly.
Some of the items used throughout the season include:
• Monterey® products like Horticultural Oil® and Sluggo Plus® for seasonal pest and slug control
• Captain Jack’s™ products like Neem Max® and Deadbug Brew®
• ALASKA® products like Morbloom® and Fish Fertilizer® for healthy growth and abundant blooms
Every season teaches us something new, and we are always working toward healthier plants, better growing practices, and the best possible tubers and blooms for our customers.
Dahlias are beautiful, but they can also carry viruses and diseases that spread quickly throughout a garden if proper sanitation isn’t practiced. Some issues, like mosaic virus, leafy gall, crown gall, and bacterial infections, can weaken plants, reduce bloom production, distort foliage and flowers, or even kill the plant entirely. Unfortunately, many of these problems can spread through contaminated tools, infected tubers, soil, insects, or even sap transferred from one plant to another during cutting and dividing.
At Snake River Dahlias, we take cleanliness and sanitation seriously because healthy plants matter. This is why we regularly disinfect tools and surfaces with bleach and other sanitation practices between handling plants and tubers. While no grower can guarantee a completely disease-free environment, careful sanitation greatly helps reduce the risk of spreading harmful pathogens from one plant to another.
Gall diseases, in particular, are a major concern in the dahlia world. Crown gall and leafy gall are bacterial diseases that can cause abnormal growths or distorted clusters of shoots on tubers and stems. These infections are not curable, and infected plants should be removed and discarded — never composted. Viruses can also remain hidden in plants for long periods before symptoms appear, which is why prevention and careful monitoring are so important.
Because of this, we encourage all growers to practice good garden hygiene:
Our goal is always to provide strong, healthy tubers while being transparent about the realities of growing dahlias. Clean growing practices are one of the best ways we can protect both our garden and yours.
Sounds a little intimidating, right? It’s definitely an area that can feel overwhelming, and one where research and best practices are always evolving. I am no expert; just someone committed to learning, improving, and doing things the right way.
Below are some trusted resources if you’d like to dive deeper into the topic:
Disclaimer: Snake River Dahlias does NOT claim ownership of the content below. All credit and rights belong to the original creators.
• Guide to Understanding Virus in Dahlia – American Dahlia Association
https://www.dahlia.org/docsinfo/understanding_virus_in_dahlia-3/
• Virus Documentation Index – American Dahlia Association
https://www.dahlia.org/docsinfo/virus-documentation-index/
Sanitation is layered into every step—it’s not just a quick rinse and call it good. All cutting tools are disinfected between each plant using a 10% bleach solution, with additional UV light sanitization used on snip handles and high-touch surfaces to reduce potential cross-contamination. All tools, bins, and work surfaces are routinely sanitized throughout the day—not just at the end of it.
During all stages of life our dahlias are closely monitored for any signs of disease or stress, and anything questionable is removed immediately (no guessing games). Tubers are carefully cleaned, inspected, and cured before going into storage, where conditions are controlled to prevent rot and mold. It’s a thorough system by design—because protecting plant health, preserving true-to-type varieties, and delivering clean, high-quality stock isn’t something we take lightly.
Dahlias love the sun—give them a spot where they can soak up at least 6–8 hours of good, direct light each day. They’ll also appreciate soil that drains well. If the ground stays too wet, those tubers can struggle and rot.
You absolutely can! Just choose a roomy pot (at least 12–16 inches deep) with good drainage. Smaller varieties are easiest for container growing, but taller ones will do just fine with a bit of support.
If you’re short on space, a large 7–10 gallon grow bag can be a good alternative, as it allows for better root development than smaller containers. Traditional pots can work, but they often limit growth and require more attentive watering and feeding.
Dahlias truly do their best when planted in the ground, where they have plenty of space to stretch out and thrive. For the strongest plants and biggest blooms—especially those dinnerplate varieties—that’s always our recommendation. Because of this, Snake River Dahlias cannot guarantee performance of tubers that aren’t planted in their optimal conditions (in-ground).
Dahlias are heavy feeders and benefit from regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Proper nutrition supports strong root development, healthy foliage, sturdy stems, and prolific blooms. Because excessive nitrogen can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, maintaining a balanced feeding program is important.
At Snake River Dahlias, we focus on providing steady nutrition rather than over-fertilizing. When planting tubers, we incorporate soil amendments such as bone meal and blood meal into the planting hole. Bone meal supplies phosphorus and calcium to support strong root development and flower production, while blood meal provides a modest boost of nitrogen to encourage healthy early-season growth. These amendments are mixed into the surrounding soil and not placed directly against the tuber. Additional popular choices include: alfalfa pellets, compost, worm castings, mycorrhizae, and balanced slow-release fertilizers.
Throughout the season, fertilizers are applied carefully and consistently based on plant growth, soil conditions, and weather. Healthy, well-draining soil, regular watering, and proper fertilization all work together to produce vigorous plants and beautiful blooms. Dahlias perform best when they receive consistent moisture while avoiding overly wet conditions that can contribute to tuber rot and other issues.
Every garden is different, but providing healthy soil conditions and steady care will always outperform excessive feeding or overcomplicating your fertilizer routine. These additions can help encourage strong early root development, but moderation is key — overloading the planting hole with fertilizers can sometimes do more harm than good. Healthy soil and consistency will always matter more than adding a long list of products.
To plant a dahlia tuber, dig a hole approximately 4–6 inches deep. Lay the tuber horizontally in the hole with the eye (growing point) facing upward. If a visible sprout is already present, position it so it points toward the soil surface. If you're unsure where the eye is, lay the tuber on its side—it will figure itself out!
Why plant horizontally? This positioning closely mimics how tubers naturally develop and helps promote strong, healthy growth. Planting horizontally helps protect the delicate tuber neck, encourages even root development, and may reduce the risk of tuber rot. While dahlias can grow when planted at an angle, slightly tilted, or even vertically, planting horizontally with the eye facing up provides the best conditions for successful establishment and vigorous growth.
Whether or not you need to dig your dahlia tubers depends on your climate. In colder regions where the ground freezes deeply during winter, tubers should be lifted and stored indoors to prevent freeze damage. In milder climates, some gardeners successfully leave tubers in the ground, though survival depends on soil drainage, winter temperatures, and moisture levels.
After the first frost blackens the foliage, cut the stalks back to approximately 4–6 inches above the ground. Wait several days, if possible, to allow the tubers to finish curing in the soil. Carefully dig around the plant, lifting the entire clump while taking care not to damage the tubers or their delicate necks. Gently remove excess soil and inspect the clump for any damaged, soft, or diseased tubers. Allow the clumps to dry in a cool, protected location for a day or two before storage.
Store tubers in a cool, dark, frost-free location with temperatures ideally between 40–50°F (4–10°C). Many growers use slightly damp vermiculite, peat moss, wood shavings, or coco coir to help prevent excessive dehydration during storage. The storage medium should be barely moist—never wet—as excess moisture can lead to rot.
Check your tubers periodically throughout the winter. If they begin to shrivel significantly, lightly increase humidity around the storage medium. If any tubers become soft, moldy, or show signs of rot, remove them promptly to help protect the rest of the collection.
Properly stored dahlia tubers can remain healthy until spring planting, when the growing cycle begins again.
Plant your dahlia tubers in spring once the danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures have reached (and consistently stay) at least 55 - 60°F (roughly 12.8 - 15.56°C)
Proper spacing helps promote healthy growth, good airflow, and strong bloom production. Most dahlias should be planted 18–36 inches apart, depending on the mature size of the variety. Smaller and border dahlias can often be spaced closer together (around 12 inches apart), while larger decorative and dinnerplate varieties benefit from additional room to grow.
When in doubt, providing a little extra space is usually beneficial. Adequate spacing improves air circulation, makes maintenance easier, and can help reduce disease pressure throughout the growing season.
One of the most common mistakes when growing dahlias is overwatering newly planted tubers. Until sprouts emerge and the plant begins actively growing, the tuber has very few roots to absorb excess moisture. Soil that remains too wet during this stage can cause the tuber to rot before it has a chance to establish.
After planting, avoid heavy watering unless the soil is extremely dry. Once sprouts begin to emerge above the soil surface, start watering lightly, providing just enough moisture to keep the surrounding soil from becoming completely dry. As the plant develops additional leaves and stems, gradually increase watering frequency and volume. A good rule of thumb is to keep the soil lightly moist—not soggy—during early growth.
Once dahlias are actively growing and producing substantial foliage, they will require more consistent watering, especially during hot summer weather. Well-draining soil is essential, as standing water or overly saturated soil can contribute to tuber rot and poor growth.
Many dahlia varieties, especially large-flowered dinnerplate types, benefit from support throughout the growing season. Providing support early helps prevent broken stems, keeps blooms upright, and protects plants from damage caused by wind, rain, and the weight of heavy flowers.
Staking is one of the most popular support methods. Place a sturdy stake at planting time or shortly after sprouts emerge to avoid damaging the tuber later. As the plant grows, loosely tie the main stem to the stake using soft garden twine, plant ties, or horticultural tape. Add additional ties as needed throughout the season.
The Corral Method is an excellent option for larger plantings. Stakes are placed around the perimeter of a row or bed, and twine, baling string, or netting is run between the stakes to create a supportive "corral" around the plants. Additional layers can be added higher up as the plants grow, helping support multiple stems while allowing plants to move naturally in the wind.
Horizontal Netting is another common method. Garden netting or support mesh is installed above young plants and raised as needed throughout the season. The stems grow through the openings, creating a natural support structure that helps prevent flopping.
No matter which method you choose, it's best to install supports early in the season before plants become large and difficult to manage. Early support results in straighter stems, healthier plants, and more attractive blooms throughout the growing season.
Not all dahlias bloom at the same rate. Large-flowered and dinnerplate varieties often take longer (100+ days) to reach their first blooms because they must produce more vegetative growth before flowering. These varieties typically grow taller, develop larger stems, and invest more energy into producing their impressive blooms, which can measure 8–12 inches or more across.
Smaller-flowered varieties, such as ball, miniature ball, pompon, and many decorative dahlias, often bloom earlier because they require less energy to produce flowers. As a result, it is common for dinnerplate varieties to bloom several weeks later than smaller types, especially in cooler climates or shorter growing seasons.
Patience is rewarded with these giants—their larger blooms may take longer to develop, but they often become some of the most spectacular flowers in the garden. With a little sunshine and care they’ll keep putting on a show right up until that first fall frost rolls in.
We do recommend pinching your plants early on—this simply means snipping out the top growing tip once the plant is about 8–12 inches tall. It might feel a little counterintuitive, but this encourages the plant to branch out, giving you stronger stems and more blooms in the long run. Throughout the season, regular cutting and light pruning will keep your plants producing. The more you cut, the more they bloom—it’s one of the best parts of growing dahlias.
Pinching is a simple pruning technique that encourages dahlias to produce more branches, stronger stems, and a greater number of blooms throughout the season. While pinching is optional, most growers find that it results in fuller, more productive plants.
To pinch a dahlia, wait until the plant is approximately 8–12 inches tall and has at least 3–4 sets of leaves. Using clean fingers or pruners, remove the top growing tip of the main stem just above a set of leaves. This signals the plant to redirect its energy into developing side shoots rather than continuing to grow as a single stem. Within a few weeks, new branches will begin forming from the leaf nodes below the pinch point. These branches will eventually produce additional flowers, resulting in a bushier plant with more blooms and sturdier stems that are better able to support the weight of the flowers.
While pinching may slightly delay the first blooms, most gardeners find that the increased flower production throughout the season is well worth the wait.
At this time, Snake River Dahlias does not offer shipping for fresh-cut flowers. Due to the delicate nature of dahlias and our commitment to providing the highest quality blooms possible, all cut flower sales are available for local pickup or local delivery only.
This allows us to ensure your flowers arrive fresh, beautiful, and in the best condition for arrangements, gifts, events, or simply enjoying at home. Availability is seasonal and limited based on what is blooming in the field.
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